Deia

Almost encircled by the imposing bulk of the towering Tramuntana mountains and cooled by the sea breeze, Deia is an extraordinarily picturesque jumble of honey-coloured houses laid out along steep streets and stairways which wind their way up to the town’s 18th-century church, Sant Joan Baptista. Walking here from Sóller is, in itself, a great day out.
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These days most of the town’s activity takes place along the thriving C/ Arxiduc Lluis Salvador, packed with excellent restaurants and the odd rough-and-tumble bar. Of the town’s 700 or so residents around half are an eclectic mix of foreigners, many with an artistic bent, and there’s an irresistible bohemian buzz about the town, especially in the summer months. The town has long captivated writers and artists, the most famous of whom – Robert Graves – is buried in the churchyard, from where you can enoy commanding views of the Med. His home has also been turned into an evocative museum. The Deià Archaeological Museum and Research Centre is also well worth a visit. Founded in 1962 by the late Dr. William H Waldren, it offers a fascinating glimpse into the area’s prehistoric past.

A half-hour walk down through olive groves leads you to a picturesque shingly beach, known as Cala Deia, where there two easy-going chiringuitos or beach bars.

Eating and drinking.

Deià is not a cheap place to eat but if your budget permits or you want to spash out on an excellent meal, there’s probably no better spot on Mallorca to indulge. Most of the town’s restaurants are along the town’s main road. For great tapas at reasonable prices, try laid-back Xelini. Also great value is Patricia’s Bar, serving up tasty, simple food on the picturesque terrace. At the other end of the scale is El Olivo, set in a refurbished 16th-century olive press at La Residencia hotel, and offering a star-studded menu and equally impressive wine list. The tasting menu comes in at around €100. Another remarkable restaurant is Es Racó d’es Teix, run by Michelin-starred Josef Sauerschell. Also garnering rave reviews is the delightful Sebastián, famed for signature dishes such as the lobster & green asparagus ravioli and rack of lamb with honey and rosemary crust. Around the corner and back on the main drag, you’ll find Jaume, offering great Mallorcan cuisine on the stunning terrace. Alternatively, try the delicious duck or fish nextdoor at Sa Dorada. Or climb the narrow lane to Sa Vinya, where you’ll enjoy staggering views of the setting sun and some magical dishes.

Down in the cove, there are two beach bars, both serving up great home cooking and fish. Ca’s Patró March is the one on higher ground and is more expensive than the simpler Ca’n Lluc right on the beach.

For drinks, the place to go is the lively Sa Fonda, where everybody heads to enjoy live music.